| This droid is supposed to be a weapon of war so it needed to be able to mount some armament. Therfore, I built sockets into the sides of the hull to allow for that. I used old, discarded hardware from work, strip styrene and a wheel piece from a model car to accomplish this. I also allowed the armament to be moveable by using aluminum tubing in the joints. |

Armament Socket

Eye Socket

Hull Detail |
| I felt the need to incorporate an eye socket to give the droid some character. Again, styrene, brass nails and plastic tubing were used to shape this area. The found object that will serve as the eye is made of metal and has a natural metal look that I feel is perfect . Therefore that piece has not yet been installed but will be after painting of the model is completed. |
| The hull needed some detail so I started by adding bits from old floppy disks above the protruding lip of the bowl. Next, I installed a length of track from a 1/35 Tamiya German HANOMAG along the bottom edge. |
| I got this neat idea to use the shell from an old auto air freshner for the engine of the droid. The slots make cool vents and the whole thing keeps the round shape look of the main body. The innards of the engine came off an old G.I. Joe vehicle with 1/35 tank parts added for interest. |

Engine Detail

Engine Parts

Finished

Adding Texture |
| The air freshener was cut up and modified a bit. I had to paint and weather the engine details before attaching the whole thing to the droid body since I wouldn't be left with any room to work with afterwards. I would just mask the vents with tissue during primer and paint to avoid messing my work up. |
| More tank parts and some ship parts were used to detail the exterior of the engine. The idea is that the engine shell will be able to hinge upwards during maintenance so I placed little styrene bits around the panel to suggest that it is in a locked position. |
| I also went ahead and took the time to add texture to the main body to give it a bit of a gritty look. I learned this technique in an issue of Finescale Modeler way back in the day and had always wanted to try it. Mr. Surfacer 1000 was used for this. It's a bit thin but it's all I had so I just thickened it up with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. The mix was applied with a stiff brush and allowed to dry. |